Clovis, New Mexico
Population: 37,775
We arrived at the Days Inn in Clovis, New Mexico, after driving for hours past nothing but open space, farmland, and cows. The Days Inn looked like it was probably a hot spot in the 70s, and no one had bothered to change the décor since. Everything was bright yellow, and there was a pool with a steamy film atop it in the indoor lobby. We befriended the hotel manager, who also bartended at the lobby bar. There was a pool table, and plenty of tequila and Dos Equis to go around. We ate dinner at a local Mexican restaurant (when in Rome!) and felt like true celebrities. There were posters and advertisements for the National Players all over town! Mom, Dad, I’ve finally made it!
Clovis Community College sponsored our performance of Around the World in 80 Days, and we performed in a giant auditorium at Marshall Middle School. We chatted with some of the locals while unloading our truck, and they talked about how the open space of New Mexico is unlike anywhere else they have ever been. We had a crisis with our projector while setting up for the show, and 80 Days is a show that is completely built around the use of media, cameras, and projections. Two of our company members went on a wild goose chase through rural New Mexico, looking for components that the Wal-Mart employees have never heard of. The nearest Best Buy was an hour and a half away. Mark, the spry, charming old Technical Director saved the day by bringing us a new projector. New Mexicans know that the show must go on!
Clovis was welcoming and had a wonderfully small town vibe. It felt like we had traveled back in time. My only regret is that I didn’t get to spend more time in this state.
Cut to—driving back to Texas, where we got caught in (not one) but TWO Texas speed traps. Screw you, Texas cops. Get a life. And stop racial profiling. #thisisAmerica
Austin, TX
Population: 950,715
CIVILIZATION! I never knew how much I appreciated buildings until I was surrounded by nothing by flat farmland for days. I cannot believe I never got the chance to visit this incredible city while my badass cousin Morgan lived there. Luckily, she texted me some awesome local recommendations. We finally had a well-earned day off in Austin, TX. Time really expands on the road. Our days are so long that it felt like we had been on the road for a month, not merely a week! I was finally feeling healthy again, thanks to steroids and antibiotics, so I was ready to explore a new city.
The night we arrived we got small plates and delicious gin ice ball cocktails at a restaurant called Swift’s Attic. Exposed brick and hipster beards abounded. The quail was to die for. We walked the “Dirty 6th” which is basically a street lined with bars and clubs. If I hadn’t been in the car all day, I totally would have boogied.
The next day was the greatest day off. A bunch of us ate at a modern diner called Magnolia Café on South Congress St for brunch in the morning. We did some local shopping, where I bought a “Support Local Female Orgasms” shirt (Austin was definitely targeting my aesthetic). If I had any room at all in my already stuffed suitcase, I would have bought so many unnecessary tchotchkes. We found an incredible bookstore that had a rare $1,000 first edition of Vonnegut’s Player Piano and a Playbill signed by Ingrid Bergman. I could have died and gone straight to Book Heaven.
After bumming around South Congress for a bit, we were “those assholes” who rented a bunch of scooters and scooted across town for some beers at Easy Tiger (thanks, Morgan!). It was a gorgeous day outside. We sipped beer and played Ping-Pong in the Texas breeze.
For dinner, we went on a quest for ramen. Apparently Austin is obsessed with ramen, because EVERYWHERE we went had a line going out the door! We finally found this tiny little place (it could only fit 15 people at most) and ate handmade tapioca noodles in the best ramen I have ever had. I know it’s sinful to eat ramen instead of tacos in Texas, but I do what I want.
Crockett, TX
Population: 6,526
Everything is all fun and games until everyone catches the plague, and you have three performances in two days. So, I’m back to being sick again. I’m convinced the company caught something nasty from the kids hugging everyone after our performance in New Mexico, because this is way worse than the cold I had previously. My head is throbbing, and it feels like someone is sitting on my chest. My back is in unbearable pain every time I cough. I have a fever that comes and goes, and my skin is doing that weird thing where it’s hot and chilly and just plain sore. And I’m not the only one. Pretty much everyone but Deidre is sick to some degree, and morale is low.
Crockett is one of the poorest cities in the country. This is a place that really fulfills the National Players’ mission of bringing theatre to people without access. It was important that we were here. I only wish that we had had the health and strength to give them the energetic performances they deserved. I had several emotional breakdowns. This is a hard job, y’all. Some days (like in Austin), it feels like a vacation. Other days, it feels like you are running on absolute fumes and your body is betraying you when all you want to do is bring quality theatre to a community severely lacking in artistic opportunities.
Not only was the company severely sick and exhausted, but we were also encountering racism and sexual harassment, making our jobs even harder to accomplish. Hailing from a small Southern town myself, I am always rooting for Southerners to defy the stereotypes attached to them. There are so many good, kind, and smart people in the South. However, there also exists ignorance and fear. I won’t go into detail, so as not to publicize experiences that my company members also had, but suffice it to say that the women and people of color on our tour were not treated with the respect they deserve.
Crockett is a town with basically 3 or 4 restaurants (most of them Tex-Mex) and a Wal-Mart. They put us up at a Knights Inn, where many of the people staying there were actual residents. Most everything closes before the sun goes down. I hate that I’m leaving this town feeling sick, exhausted, and disappointed. I hope next year’s tour has a healthier and safer experience than we had.
Things I Am Thankful For That Are Keeping Me Going:
-I woke up this afternoon without a fever, and that is excellent.
-My company is full of caring, delightful humans, who let me lean on them (even when I am covered in germs).
-Nurse Hugh has taken great care of me and bought me bouillon when I couldn’t leave the bed.
-Ron and Dorothea Staples are the greatest audience members an actor could ask for. (Also their daughter is the best human I know).
-We are headed to Asheville, NC, which is one of my very favorite places in the world!
-On the way, we are stopping in Tuscaloosa, AL, where my amazing friend and company member CJ Riggs is from.
-I get to see my family in just a little over a week!
Your Dear Lady Disdain,
Jamie